Snow Goggles

Yes, and we would not send you up the hill without a pair. Snow throws a huge amount of ultraviolet light straight back at your eyes, and at altitude, that exposure gets stronger again. Our goggles block those rays, keep wind and blowing snow out, and give you a clear read on the terrain ahead. They also protect your eyes if you catch a branch or take a fall.

Start with UV protection, then lens tint, then fit. Every lens we make blocks 100% of UV. After that, look at the VLT for the light you ride in, the lens shape for field of view, and whether the frame accepts interchangeable lenses. Finally, check that the goggle seals against your face and sits flush with your snow helmet.

Ski goggles and snowboard goggles serve the same purpose: block UV light, keep out the elements, and fit comfortably under a helmet. Snowboarders sometimes prefer a wider frame for peripheral vision when looking over a shoulder, and skiers sometimes want a more focused view, but the two are interchangeable. We build every pair in our snow goggles range for both.

We would work through it in four steps. Pick your lens tint by the light you ride in most, using VLT rather than color. Pick your lens shape by how much peripheral vision you want. Decide whether you want interchangeable lenses for changing weather. Then check fit, helmet compatibility, and whether you need an OTG frame for glasses. If you would rather not, our Help Me Choose Snow Goggles quiz does it for you.

We use three lens shapes across our range, and each one reads the mountain a little differently.

• Cylindrical lenses curve horizontally but stay flat vertically. You get a low profile and a clean look, with slightly more glare and a little edge distortion. This is the Flume.
• Spherical lenses curve both ways, roughly matching your eye's shape. Distance and terrain read more naturally, glare drops off, and the extra air volume inside helps with fogging. This is Traverse and Traverse Plus.
• Toric lenses curve more horizontally than vertically without going flat, so they follow your face more closely. Wide peripheral vision, minimal distortion, lower profile. This is the Zenith.

VLT stands for visible light transmission, the percentage of light a lens lets through. A low VLT lens is heavily tinted and built for bright, sunny days. A high VLT lens is lightly tinted and built for overcast skies, snowfall, and flat light. Our lenses run from 5.38% at the darkest to 77.65% at the lightest, so there is a tint for most conditions you will ride in.

Match the VLT to the light you expect, not to the lens color. Here is how we would break it down:

• Bright sun and bluebird days: around 5% to 20% VLT
• Mixed sun and cloud: around 20% to 40% VLT
• Overcast and flat light: around 40% to 60% VLT
• Heavy cloud, snowfall, and low light: 60% VLT and above

We list the exact VLT for every lens on its product page, so you can check the figure before you commit.

Pick the VLT first and let color be the fun part. As a rough guide, platinum, black, and deep red tints usually sit at lower VLT and suit bright days, while yellow, copper, amber, and rose tints usually sit higher and suit cloudy conditions. Color on its own is not a reliable signal, though, so we would always point you to the stated VLT percentage rather than judging by eye.

Some are; most are not. Polarization cuts glare bouncing off snow and ice, which makes icy patches and contours easier to read on bright days. We offer a mirror polarized lens on both Zenith and Traverse Plus, rated at 8.50% VLT, which puts them firmly in bright sun territory.

So one pair can handle a whole day. Light on the mountain shifts fast, and a tint that works at first chair can be too dark once cloud rolls in. Swapping a lens takes seconds and saves carrying a second pair. We use two systems: magnetic on Zenith and Traverse Plus, which swap in seconds with gloves on, and snap-in on Flume, which takes a little more effort and keeps the price down. Replacement lenses are sold separately.

Snugly, all the way around your eyes, with the foam forming a complete seal against your face. Tighten the strap just enough to hold them in place without creating pressure points, and you should still be able to slip a finger between the strap and your head. Turn your head side to side, and they should not shift. There should be no gap at your helmet brim.

Over, with the strap running around the outside of the shell. Wearing them underneath pushes the frame into your face and leaves a gap at the top where cold air gets in. Check that the goggle sits flush against the helmet brim with no daylight showing. If you pair your goggles with one of our snow helmets, that fit is something we have already taken care of for you.

Yes, as long as the goggles are OTG, which stands for over-the-glasses. OTG frames have extra depth and notches in the foam so your temple arms sit comfortably without pressing into the sides of your head. Zenith and Traverse Plus are both OTG designs, so those are the two to choose if you ride in glasses.

For adults, you do not really need to. Our adult frames are one size fits most with fully adjustable straps, so there is no sizing chart to work through. Children need a smaller frame shaped for their face, which is what our kids snow range covers. If you wear prescription glasses, choose Zenith or Traverse Plus, our two OTG frames.

Because snow reflects up to 80% of ultraviolet radiation straight back at your eyes, and sunlight is already stronger at altitude. That combination can cause short-term snow blindness and contribute to cataracts and macular degeneration over years. Every lens we make blocks 100% of UV, so the tint you pick changes how bright things look, not how protected you are.

You can, but we would not. Without goggles, your eyes take the full force of reflected UV, which risks snow blindness, and wind and blowing snow make the terrain much harder to read. Sunglasses help with glare but do not seal against wind and rarely stay put in a fall. A pair of goggles is the safer call in almost every condition you will meet.

Let them air dry first, then wipe only the outer lens with a microfiber cloth. Never wipe the inside while it is wet, because the anti-fog coating is delicate and rubbing it causes damage you cannot undo. Skip household glass cleaners and paper towels entirely. Shake off loose snow, leave them somewhere cool and dry, and store them in the bag that came with them.

Fog forms when warm, damp air from your face meets a cold lens, so the fix is airflow. Keep the vents at the top and bottom of the frame clear of snow, and try not to push your goggles up onto your helmet, which traps warm air against the lens. Multi-layer face foam helps too. If you do take them off, store them somewhere cool and dry, not in a pocket.

Vents keep air moving so condensation never gets a chance to settle. Those small openings at the top and bottom of the frame draw cool, dry outside air in and push warm, moist air from your face out. That balance keeps the temperature and humidity inside the goggle steady, which stops the lens from clouding over when you are working hard on a climb or a long run.

A good pair lasts several seasons with reasonable care, and most riders replace them every two to three years. How long yours last comes down to how often you ride, how you store them, and how carefully you handle the lens. Keep them at room temperature away from damp and direct sun. Replace them when scratches, a worn seal, or a failing anti-fog coating start getting in the way of your view.